Esquel is a peaceful town in Argentine Patagonia, located at the foot of the Andes and surrounded by lakes, forests, and snowy peaks.
It’s a great base to explore the incredible Los Alerces National Park, ride the historic La Trochita train, enjoy outdoor activities like trekking, and experience authentic Patagonian culture.
Less touristy than other destinations like Bariloche, Esquel offers a more local and quiet vibe, while still giving access to some of the region’s most impressive landscapes.
How to Get to Esquel
Esquel is located in Chubut Province, in the western part of Argentine Patagonia. You can get there by:
- Plane: The Esquel Airport (EQS) has regular flights from Buenos Aires (around 2.5 hours).
- Car: From Bariloche, it’s a scenic 5 to 6-hour drive (about 300 km / 185 mi) along Route 40, passing through the Patagonian steppe and forested valleys.
- Bus: There are long-distance buses from major cities like Bariloche, El Bolsón, Trelew, and Buenos Aires.
Main Attractions and Activities
- Visit Los Alerces National Park
Just 40 km (25 mi) west of Esquel, Parque Nacional Los Alerces is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful national parks in Argentina. It protects:
- Ancient forests
- Deep-blue lakes
- Glaciers
- Rivers and waterfalls
- Some of the oldest trees on Earth: the Alerces (Fitzroya), some over 2,600 years old!
What to do in the park:
- Trekking:
- Lago Verde – Río Arrayanes Trail: Easy and scenic.
- Mirador del Lago Futalaufquen: Short uphill hike with a panoramic view.
- Puerto Chucao – Alerce Milenario Trail: A boat and hiking combo that takes you to a giant 2,600-year-old Alerce tree.
- Laguna Escondida & Cerro Alto el Petiso: Moderate to challenging trails with amazing views.
- Kayaking and boat tours: You can rent kayaks or take boat excursions across Lago Menéndez, Lago Verde, and other crystal-clear lakes.
- Wildlife spotting: Look for foxes, condors, woodpeckers, and even huemules (an endangered Patagonian deer).
Route tip: The road through the park (Ruta Provincial 71) is mostly gravel but in good condition during summer. A 4×4 isn’t necessary, but take it slow and enjoy the ride — it’s stunning.
- Ride La Trochita – “The Old Patagonian Express”
One of the most unique experiences in Esquel is taking a ride on La Trochita, a narrow-gauge steam train built in the 1920s and 30s.
- It runs at about 30 km/h (18 mph) and takes you through Patagonian steppe and hills.
- The wood-fired engines and old wooden seats give a true vintage feel.
- It’s a short, round-trip ride (usually Esquel to Nahuel Pan), but full of charm and history.
Fun fact: This train became famous thanks to Paul Theroux’s book, The Old Patagonian Express.
- Go Trekking Around Esquel
Besides the trails inside Los Alerces, Esquel has some great hikes nearby:
- La Zeta Reserve: Just outside town, this is a great place for walking or biking, with views of the Andes and a lake where you can swim in summer.
- Cerro La Hoya: In winter, this is a ski resort; in summer, you can hike or take the lift up for panoramic views.
- Cerro 21: A longer hike for experienced trekkers — rewarded with one of the best views of the valley and surrounding mountains.
- Explore the Town
Esquel is calm and friendly, with:
- Small cafés and local restaurants serving Patagonian lamb, trout, and handmade pastas.
- Artisan chocolate and beer shops (yes, like in Bariloche, but quieter!).
- A central plaza where locals gather, especially in summer.
There are also several museums and cultural centers that tell the story of Welsh immigration, the railway, and the indigenous Mapuche-Tehuelche communities.
Day Trips from Esquel
- Trevelin:
Just 30 minutes south, this is a Welsh-heritage town famous for its tea houses, flower fields, and access to the southern section of Los Alerces Park. It’s also near Campo de Tulipanes, which blooms with colors in October. - Futaleufú (Chile):
You can cross into Chile (with proper documents) and visit this famous river, known for world-class whitewater rafting. - Lago Rosario and Sierra Colorada:
Peaceful, off-the-beaten-path communities with strong indigenous heritage and beautiful rural landscapes.
When to Visit Esquel
- Summer (December–March): Best for hiking, lake activities, and exploring the national park.
- Fall (April–May): Amazing autumn colors in the forests.
- Winter (July–September): Ideal for skiing at La Hoya, a resort with great snow and a long season.
- Spring (October–November): Wildflowers begin to bloom and weather improves for hiking.
Travel Tips
- Currency: Argentine peso (ARS)
- Language: Spanish; some locals in Trevelin also speak Welsh!
- Weather: Cool year-round — bring layers. Summer days are warm, but nights are cold.
- Car rental: Useful if you want to explore Los Alerces freely and visit nearby towns.
Esquel is a wonderful destination for travelers looking for nature, history, and quiet beauty. It’s perfect for outdoor lovers who want to discover ancient forests, ride a historic steam train, or hike in pristine mountains. Whether you’re a solo adventurer, a family, or a couple, Esquel offers a unique and authentic Patagonian experience — off the beaten path, but unforgettable.
We’re a local tour operator based in Buenos Aires, which offers custom tours in Patagonia and other regions of Argentina and Chile. We invite you to contact us, and start planning your next incredible journey to South America!
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