Perched on the windswept Atlantic coast of Argentine Patagonia, Puerto Deseado is a place where nature and history intersect in spectacular fashion. This remote town in the province of Santa Cruz is one of Patagonia’s best-kept secrets, offering raw coastal beauty, exceptional wildlife encounters, and the meandering Deseado River, which tells a geological story millions of years in the making.
Where the River Meets the Sea: The Unique Geography of Puerto Deseado
Unlike most rivers, the Deseado River no longer reaches the ocean as a flowing body of water. Today, it is a fossil river, a remnant of ancient tectonic shifts and glacial movements. Its course now forms a dramatic, rocky estuary—a labyrinth of canyons and cliffs carved by millennia of water and wind.
Exploring the river by zodiac boat reveals a surreal landscape teeming with life: Magellanic penguins, imperial cormorants, dolphins, and sea lions coexist in this pristine environment. The estuary is part of a protected coastal reserve, making it a haven for birdwatchers and marine enthusiasts alike.
A Town with a History of Survival
Puerto Deseado has roots dating back to the voyages of Thomas Cavendish in the 16th century. It later served as a key point during Patagonia’s colonization and economic expansion in the late 1800s, thanks to the arrival of the railway. While the town remains small and relatively isolated, its charm lies in this very seclusion—offering visitors a sense of stepping back in time.
Wildlife Highlights
- Commerson’s dolphins (a.k.a. “panda dolphins”), playful and easily spotted from the harbor
- Rockhopper penguins at Isla Pingüino—one of the few accessible places to see them in Argentina
- Patagonian sea lions basking along the rocky shores
- Birdlife galore: steamer ducks, oystercatchers, and sheathbills
Road Trip Tip: How to Reach and Connect Puerto Deseado
Puerto Deseado is a fantastic destination for those traveling by road along Patagonia’s Atlantic coast, especially for those looking to get off the beaten path.
Getting There
- From Comodoro Rivadavia: ~730 km (455 mi) south along Ruta Nacional 3, then west on Ruta Provincial 281 (paved)
- From Caleta Olivia: ~500 km (310 mi), also along RN 3 and RP 281
Combine With
- Camarones & Cabo Dos Bahías: A natural next stop northward, sharing similar wildlife attractions and scenic seascapes
- Península Valdés: For those heading further north, this UNESCO site is ideal for whale watching
- Bosques Petrificados National Park: Inland from Puerto Deseado, this detour offers surreal fossilized forests and otherworldly landscapes
Road Conditions & Tips
- All main access routes are paved, though local excursions to Isla Pingüino or parts of the estuary require 4×4 or guided boat tours
- Gas stations are scarce—refuel whenever you can
- Ideal for those seeking a wildlife-focused self-drive route with minimal tourist crowds
We’re a local tour operator based in Buenos Aires, which offers custom tours in Patagonia and other regions of Argentina and Chile. We invite you to contact us, and start planning your next incredible journey to South America!
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